Oh So Quiet!

For shame! Even a most loyal Bali-lover like myself can get forgetful. And, that means that Nyepi came and went a scant 2 weeks ago and I didn't know it. So, I'm hoping the bhuta kala accept this blog on my behalf and don't torment me for the rest of the year!
(Don't know what I'm talking about? Then, the below is definitely for you!)

In honor of the holiDAYtrips blog going to Bali last May, today’s entry is all about the Balinese Day of Silence, or Nyepi. A Hindu holiday observed every year on the first new moon after the spring equinox, Nyepi is a day of silence, fasting, and meditation.

Observed for a full 24 hours, from 6am to 6am, Nyepi is reserved for self-reflection and requires those participating to stay indoors and refrain from anything that might impede their contemplation. This means no working, lighting fires or cooking, entertaining, and any other strenuous activity, including any type of hanky-panky! And, some very pure devotees don’t utter a word or eat anything for the full 24 hour period.

Need a visual?! Well, Ed and I were happy to help break this one down for you!

Out of respect for their fellow Hindu citizens, many of Bali’s non-Hindu residents also observe Nyepi. And, Pecalangs (Balinese security officers) literally keep the "peace," as they patrol the streets, watching for any activities that may derail Nyepi. Even if you’re merely a wandering tourist, a Pecalang will usually escort you back to your hotel; since streets are closed to pedestrians as well as vehicles. Even the airports are closed on Nyepi.

Now, the Day of Silence is pretty fantastic in itself; but, in my opinion, the beauty of the shift into the Balinese New Year can only fully be understood through the days surrounding Nyepi.

The day before Nyepi, the Tawur Kesanga ritual is held. First, a payment is offered to pacify the evil spirits (bhuta kala). Then, villages erect large bamboo versions of Ogoh-ogoh (evil troll-looking fanged monsters that represent the evil spirits) and parade them around.

Ogoh-ogoh and Balinese children in Ubud

(Photo: Jack Merridew)

In the evening torches are lit, the Ogoh-ogoh are burned, and things get loud! This scares away any remaining evil spirits and represents the island being cleansed in the New Year.

And, of course, all of this ends as total silence falls over Bali, on Nyepi -- in an effort to trick evil spirits into thinking the island is empty so they will not come back.

The day following Nyepi is one of my favorite cultural observances. It’s called Ngembak Geni and it’s a day of forgiveness. People visit their relatives and friends, seek understanding and absolution for the wrongs of the previous year, and pledge to work together to meet the trials of the New Year.

Pretty astounding, isn’t it?

Happy Balinese New Year! Now, get off the computer! You’re not supposed to be working today. Go read a book! (Make it a book on Bali.)

Selamat Jalan,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

My Big, Fat, Greek, Clean Monday

This week, we're revisiting one of our very first blogs -- Clean Monday! The spring season is about to bust wide open, and that means we get to share some of the insights we learned at this time, last year. We've changed a few bits here and there to keep things interesting, but the heart of things is basically unchanged. And, heart is really what Clean Monday is all about!

For this particular celebration, Ed and I decided to have a bit of a staycation to commemorate the Greek Eastern Orthodox Christian holiday that marks the first day of Lent, Clean Monday or Kathari Deftera. While other Christian denominations started their Lent seasons on Ash Wednesday, many Greeks have been busy cleaning house, planning picnics, and packing their kites in preparation for the beginning of the Easter season and the coming of spring.

The reason we decided not to venture out wasn't because we just HAD to show you our cozy attic kitchen; but, rather, we wanted to try our hand at baking Lagana, a traditional Greek bread only served on Clean Monday.

There are some hard and fast rules to what observers may eat on Kathari Deftera. For starters, any animal that bleeds is out. Dairy is out (this, sadly, means butter). Fish is out, though shellfish is fine (and quite popular). As for the Lagana, it is traditionally supposed to be unleavened, but I wasn't able to find any recipe that didn't include a little yeast.

This is the recipe that I ended up cobbling together from all of the top contenders out there in the foodiverse:

• 3 envelopes active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 7 cups bread flour
• 2 1/3 cups warm water
• 1 tbsp. salt
• 5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• Sesame seeds for sprinkling

And these are the ingredients I added to my (separate) focaccia-style Lagana:

• Sub out evoo, for 5 tbsp. butter
• 25 Kalamata olives, pitted
• 1 1/2 tsp. rosemary
• 3/4 tsp. garlic powder
• 1 tsp. oregano
• 1 tsp. thyme
• 1 tsp. sea salt + 1 tsp. sea salt sprinkled on top

1. First, I combined the flour and salt. Then, I made a well for the evoo.
2. Once the yeast started bubbling up (from the sugar/water mixture) and looking strangely like a cappuccino, I mixed it into the flour mixture.
3. Next, I kneaded the dough for 5-10 minutes, rolled it into a ball, rubbed it with evoo and set it aside for 2 hours, under a tea towel, to double.

Of course, all of this was executed with one glass of Greek wine tied behind my back!

After the dough doubled and we'd had our fill of wine, it became clear that further bread making antics would have to wait until the morning. This included rolling both doughs out, as thin as possible. A little bit of a squishy affair when working with the olive-filled focaccia.

Now, watch and be amazed as the master bread maker perfectly executes her Lagana:

Once the bread was finished, we needed to prep the table for our Clean Monday feast. This meant setting out our favorite Greek spreads, olives, grilled octopus, and stuffed grape leaves.

Ain't no party like an octopodi...

Not sure how to tell your taramosalata from your melitzanosalata? Not to worry, Ed has all the answers!

Finally came the magical moment when I got to sample the Lagana. It truly was a labor of love and really drove the idea of Lent and family effort home for me.

Happy Kathari Deftera, everybody! (May you have great breezes for kite flying!)

And, here's to the beginning of a lovely spring,

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

Moses' Chosen Burger

This week, we decided to stay close to home to check out a local landmark, White Manna Hamburgers, in Hackensack, NJ. Named for the biblical food that fell from heaven in Exodus, this location of White Manna has been cranking out onion-smothered sliders since 1946 and is a bit of an institution in this neck of the woods. By the way, I've always imagined that manna looked like instant mashed potato flakes. This is hardly relevant, but I honestly don't know if I'll even have occasion to share that little brain nugget again!

The sign is bigger than the diner!

Sitting right on the bank of the Hackensack River, the location is so picturesque that you'd think a burger joint no larger than an Airstream trailer would look out of place; but, due to the surrounding street-scape and the history that further entrenched White Manna into this very spot, it's the river that seems odd while gurgling under the shadow of the diminutive diner.

Though, you guys don't want to hear any more about the landscape. How did the burgers stack up? That's really all you crazy carnivores want to know, isn't it?

Feel free to leave your thoughts about White Manna in the comments section. And, if you have any other local gems you'd like for us to explore and review, definitely share that as well!

Dreaming of owning my own flattop grill,

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

Black Noodles for My Black, Black Heart

This week, we're revisiting one of our most popular blogs, in honor of that great pain in the ass of an unoriginal holiday -- Valentine's Day. We've changed a few bits here and there to keep things interesting and (no promises, but) we may have even tracked down Russell Stover and kicked him squarely in the chocolate truffles.

Just remember, maxi pads have wings too.

Ah, Valentine’s Day…

...flowers…love notes…eating half of every chocolate candy while on the hunt for anything with coconut and putting the rest back in the sampler box…sweethearts walking hand-in-hand…birdies singing because spring is just around the corner…it’s a nice scene, isn’t it?

Then, why does it suck so bad?!

Try as I might to be perky about the mandated day of love, all I seem to see is flowers that cost 40% less last week … the marginalizing of lonely individuals … children in the Third World laboring in chocolate factories … my favorite restaurants decidedly jamming 20 more tables and chairs into an already tight space … really bad movies with way too many celebrity cameos by overpaid actors that only had to be on set for less than a week in order to move the 19 shoddy plots along … being told I’m great because a day decrees it to be so.
(I know I’m great, tell me tomorrow.)

And, I know I’m not alone. Many people can’t stand Valentine’s Day.

Antivalentinism is an established movement and, while I don’t necessarily want to label myself as quite THAT committed to my distaste for the most unoriginal day of the year, it’s a surprisingly sensible criticism.

The first insulting Valentine’s cards surfaced in the 1850s and were known as Vinegar Valentines or Penny Dreadfuls. They were usually poorly printed and sent anonymously. The post office sometimes confiscated them as unfit to be mailed.

Anti-Valentine cards exist and they’re AWESOME!

So, as you might have guessed, I looked at all other possible world holidays being celebrated this week. But, with North America, Europe, Latin America, Asia, and even parts of the Middle East all drinking cupid’s Kool-Aid, Independence Day in Gambia just didn’t quite make the cut. 

As a result, I set out to find a custom somewhere on the planet that could potentially save Valentine’s Day for me. Out of all of the countries that celebrate V-Day, there just had to be a tradition that didn’t make me want to choke on a box of Be Mine hearts.

And, it turns out that my search did us all proud! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you Black Day: the most excellent, South Korean (by way of China), Valentine’s ritual.

Here’s the deal ... in South Korea, on February 14, folks are still actively engaging in the age-old tradition of exchanging candy – only it’s women who give candy to men. One month later, on March 14 (White Day), men return the favor by giving women non-chocolate or white chocolate tokens of their affection. Then, one more bumpy ride of a month down the Tunnel of Love, we find ourselves at April 14 – Black Day!

Reserved for the lonely hearts, Black Day is when those who didn’t exchange gifts on V-Day or White Day take themselves out to a restaurant and eat Jjajangmyun, Korean noodles with black bean sauce. The black sauce is what gives the day its name and apparently gives singles the strength to move on in a loveless world!

Homemade korean noodles.

Mix the two and thank me later.

Black bean sauce.

The sauce is made from a base of fermented black bean paste, potatoes, and onions. And, apparently you can't get the real-deal just anywhere; though, a little digging revealed that the Jjajangmyun in the New York metro area can be found at Mandarin restaurant, in Palisades Park, New Jersey. They make their own noodles in-house and serve Chinese food in the Korean style.

Palisades Park's Koreatown has the highest concentration
of Korean restaurants within a one-mile radius in the U.S.

The main red characters spell Mandarin in Korean.
The smaller, red characters say su ta gook su (hand made noodles).

That's right! Ed wins a gold star (covered in black bean sauce) for giving his order clearly and properly, albeit loudly and overly annunciated. 

Show off.

Though, things started to quickly look up as I tucked into my seafood soup!

I even (generously) let Ed suck the prawn head.

Mmm...brains...

And, if there's one final, loving nugget that we would like to leave you with, it's this -- when dining out on Jjajangmyun, DO NOT sample the dessert gum.

You've been warned.

Also, the abbreviation for Singles Awareness Day is SAD.

Well, I’m off to get my Antivalentinist card laminated.

Until next week,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

Slap Yo' Momma

Well, the most treasured of American holidays has come and gone; but, that won't stop me from basking in the glow of dimmed stadium lights as they reflect in purple & gold confetti for a couple more days.

Why might I carry out Superbowl magic as long as possible? Do I love the Ravens? Nope. Am I a sucker for football season and hate to see it end? Yes, but that's not it either. Could it be that I have selfish interests? Much warmer...

You see, I have a family recipe for Chinese chicken wings that is so good it will seriously make you want to slap yo' momma! And, one night a year, I get the privilege of producing a dish so complete in its awesomeness that it brings grown, football-loving men to tears. That's why I mourn the passing of Superbowl Sunday. It will likely be another trip around the sun before I am chockfull of high-fives and meat sweats.

You will never stop thanking me for this ... ever.

And, since this is a blog dedicated to sharing holiday experiences -- especially the ones where men put on helmets and smack talk -- I really wanted to deliver for all of you in a big way, by 'dishing-out' my magical chicken-y knowledge.

However, we hit a speed bump right out of the gate:

My text to my Chinese-American Stepdad:
"Hi Dad! How would you feel about me featuring your chx wings on the blog this week? Would you mind if I share the recipe?"

My dad's text back to me:
"I want the recipe to be a family secret. It is, however, based on a published and copyrighted recipe by noted Chinese chef Joyce Chen. Ms Chen, I believe now deceased, was a friend of my mother's family. There is now a line of Chinese cookware that bears her name."

Well, it was over before it started. I so wanted to pass on the source of my deliciously gooey Superbowl powers, but you don't argue when a parent utters the words secret family recipe. What if Mrs. Fields' daughter couldn't keep her trap shut? Or, God forbid, little Sally Entenmann?

No sir, I can't deny myself the eventual windfall that is my chicken wing birthright. I WILL NOT go against the family. I WILL NOT share our secrets with the unwashed chicken wing loving masses. I will, however, tweak said recipe just enough that you, too, can be inundated with pub grub love this time next year.

So, after adding some delicious new elements and keeping a couple ingredients to myself, here is what you need to know:

(All measurements based on 2 pounds of chicken wings)

- Add several Tablespoons of coconut oil to dutch oven or large pot, over medium heat.
- Brown wings in batches, about 4 minutes on each side.
- Once all wings are browned, lower heat to medium-low and add:
- 1-2 Tablespoons of chopped fresh ginger.
- 1 minced chili. Chinese chili, if you can find it. A Serrano pepper (with seeds) works just fine, too.
- 2 Chinese anise stars.
- Let that cook several minutes, until fragrant. Then add:
- 1/3 Cup soy sauce.
- 1/3 Cup sake.
- 1/3 Cup water.
- 2 Tablespoons mirin.
- 1-2 Tablespoons sugar.
- Bump the heat back up to medium and bring to a simmer.
- Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir Every 5 minutes or so.
- Uncover and cook over medium-high heat for 15 minutes, continuing to stir every 5 minutes.
- Remove the wings from the sauce and transfer them to a platter.
- Continue reducing the remaining sauce.
- Once it becomes a thick glaze, discard any star anise pieces you come across.
- Pour glaze over your towering platter of amazing chicken wings.
- Enjoy!

If this doesn't make you hungry, you might be broken.

I think the biggest thing we can all take away from this holiday (other than a mild tummy ache) is that my family totally knew Joyce Chen! How awesome is that?! And, you can simply click here should you want to take a gander at her version of this recipe -- or her daughter's updated version.

I'll be perfecting my touchdown dance until we meet again,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

It's SUPER Setsubun!

Well, one year ago ... this week ... we began the best darn travel blog EVER! And, our inaugural blog post was a little tome titled "Soybeans, demons, and a giant tube of sushi." We used the Japanese festival that marks the beginning of spring to catapult ourselves into world holiday relevance and we haven't looked back since -- not even when someone was pelting us with colored dye during Holi or promising us the world's best gelato in Rome.

This week, in honor of our year of holidays & holiDAYtrips and the upcoming Setsubun festivities planned for this [Superbowl] Sunday, we are re-visiting our first blog post. So, read on, my friends. We've even changed a few bits here and there to keep things interesting!

Hi World! Welcome to the holiDAYtrips video blog!
(It’s lovely to make your acquaintance.)

Most days, on Twitter, we post a new world holiday; but, we also wanted to create a forum for posting the video evidence of our global [mis]adventures!
("We," by the way, is me and my husband, Ed!)

Today’s video holiDAYtrip is Setsubun, the Japanese festival that marks the beginning of spring. For centuries, on the day before spring, the Japanese have performed rituals in order to chase away evil spirits and prepare for the new year. One of my favorite Japanese customs, from the 1200s, involved burning dried sardine heads and using the smell to keep bad energy at bay. Now THAT'S a party!

Nowadays, the most popular custom associated with Setsubun is mamemaki, or bean throwing. Of course, there are many variations on mamemaki throughout Japan; but, in a nutshell, families throw roasted soybeans out of their house via the front door (or at a willing volunteer in a devil mask) and shout:
"Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!" (Demons out, happiness in!)

Afterward, everyone picks up and eats the number of beans, which corresponds to their age; and, usually one more for luck.

Roasted soybeans...reminded me of Corn Nuts

So, for our first order of Setsubun business, Ed and I headed to the one place we knew wouldn’t disappoint -- Mitsuwa Marketplace. For those of you who aren’t crazy foodies (like us), Mitsuwa is the largest Japanese supermarket in the United States and has most Japanese specialty items a person could want.

For those of you that are foodies, it turns out that the best time to go to Mitsuwa is at 1:40pm on a Monday.

Once inside, while on the hunt for beans, we were promptly asked to stop filming.
(Aww, fuku mame!)

We eventually found the small Setsubun section – where all the packets of soybeans had a little devil head on the outside. Now that I think twice about it, we may have also found the entrance to Yomi-no-kuni, the Japanese realm of the dead! Good thing we promptly made our purchases and got on our way...

Ed, with Sapporo and Demon Mask (Our usual date tools)

Now, gaining popularity in some parts of Japan is another Setsubun tradition that we were most excited to try – eating a “Lucky Direction” roll, or Eho-Maki. It’s customary to eat this sushi in a very specific way.

First of all, the roll must stay uncut (mmm…sushi tube!); it must contain 7 ingredients (mmm…fat sushi tube!); you must eat it in silence while facing the yearly lucky compass direction, determined by the zodiac symbol of that year.

As 2013 is the Year of the Snake, the lucky direction is South-South-East.
(Don't be thrown by our video, below, saying it's the Year of the Dragon ... that was correct when we first filmed, in 2012.)

Now, all of this would have been fine; however, Ed and I unknowingly stumbled into a sushi restaurant near us that didn’t have a single Japanese person working there!
(Aww, makizushi!)

So, we ended up schooling the sushi chefs on how to perfectly craft our Lucky Direction rolls.

We decided on yellowtail, mango (yellow is a lucky color), avocado,
cucumber, spicy red remoulade, tempura flake, and brown rice.

If you don't like to watch people chew giant mouthfuls of food, you should probably turn back now! Also don't be thrown when I mention (in the video below) that the lucky direction is NNW ... that was the case when we first filmed, in 2012. Again, if you're celebrating Setsubun this year (and I hope you are), the lucky direction for 2013 is South-South-East.

Setsubun was a truly great time. We laughed A LOT and were really excited that this was the first holiDAYtrip that we committed to video! Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!

And, it seems only fitting to leave you with the following…

It's been a particularly great year and I'm guessing that we did Setsubun up right in 2012 and we owe of a debt of gratitude to that old lucky direction and to that big-ass tube of sushi! We made a blog; we changed the name of the blog (did anyone catch that in the credits at the end of the last video?); we celebrated holidays from Japan, Greece, South Korea, India, the United States, and Indonesia; we monetized; we made $3.41; we realized that we love doing this so much that it doesn't matter if we never make more than $3.41.

So, to all of our loyal followers and those of you just joining us for the first time, a hearty THANK YOU! If you can't wait to find out what's next for us ... neither can we!

Get ready for the new year and all that comes with it,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it: