Some Local(ish) Escapes for Townies, Foodies, Naturalists, Romantics and Oenophiles

Well, it's about time we caught back up with one another! It's been a busy summer and, lately, I haven't had the discipline to sit at my computer and share my adventures. I blame cocktails. I think it's just too hard to blog when our bar is this well stocked. I honestly think someone should look into the phenomenon of: when June hits, gin tastes better.
(Don't even get me started on Mai Tais! Those start tasting better in March and are fully to blame as to why I don't dust until October.)

Luckily, though, I'm officially back into the swing of things AND I come bearing gifts! A gift list of destination suggestions, which I crafted for a friend looking to get out of NYC for a short, luxury getaway with his wife. He was looking for a place that would suit her needs -- lounging, spa, in-house fine dining -- as well as his -- mild adventure, great wine, and local culture. Also, he was willing to drive, rail it, or fly, as long as whichever mode of transport they utilized was within approximately 4 - 5 hours of NYC.

Personally, I look for 4 essentials at every destination -- great food; VERY nice accommodations (with special attention paid to a comfortable bed); potential for outdoor activities; not too wallet-busting. In that order.

So, I mulled it over a bit and came up with the following:

1. The Finger Lakes:

You won't have to go too far. The B&B's are amazing. It's serious wine country. And, it's far enough north that the weather should be gorgeous right now. Also, the gorges in the north of NY State and the town of Ithaca are breathtaking.

2. Bedford:

This one is a bit of a stretch, monetarily speaking; but, you wouldn't have to go very far. Richard Gere is one of the owners of the Bedford Post, an amazing, luxury inn, in Westchester County. The restaurant on-site is supposedly amazing and there is a yoga loft as well. The inn, itself, only has 8 rooms. I've definitely thought about a trip there for a special occasion, but (so far) it's been a little too pricey for us.

3. New Orleans:

If you're willing to take a short flight, one of the best down-low, summer deals is the New Orleans Ritz-Carlton. Their prices are REALLY shocking through September, because it's typically so hot in the bayou that you just may burst into flames! That said, the food, romance, ghost tours, ambience, local color, and hotel itself are beyond amazing.

Here's a link to a current deal they're running for $169/night! You'd have to buzz the reservations line to see what the price would be for each additional night; but, I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised. Truly, if you've never stayed at a Ritz-Carlton hotel, you should.

4. Rhinebeck:

Here's another option that's close to home, but gives you so much of that idyllic & historic vacay vibe. The Beekman Arms is America's oldest hotel and it's lovely. And probably haunted - though not in a scary, The Shining kind of way -- where tv's turn themselves on and off. In more of a 'Hey, I had a whole bottle of rye over here last night and now it's half gone' kind of way.

(Apparently, I'm only okay with ghosts whose appetites for craft spirits are similar to mine.)

Allegedly, George Washington commanded his troops from the grounds, so I truly wouldn't be surprised if you spied a redcoat in the hall, on the way to your room. The bar downstairs is not to be missed, even if you stay elsewhere.

And, you MUST dine at Terrapin, the nearby Zagat-rated restaurant. They have an upscale dining room as well as an attached, casual cafe side. Also, there's wine country up there as well as horse-back riding.

5. Niagara Falls (The Canadian side):

If you've never been to Niagara Falls, it's a classic choice for a quick getaway! This is especially nice if you'd like to feel International for the weekend, as I'm a firm believer in the Canadian side of the Falls being the one worth visiting. The nearby town of Niagara-on-the-Lake is super charming and there is fantastic wine to be had everywhere -- especially ice wine, if you're into it.

Bobby Leach and his barrel, after his trip over the Falls (1911).
I wouldn't recommend this particular tour.

My recommendation for a B&B would be the Lion's Head -- within walking distance of the Falls. It's run by a woman named Helena and her advice is to be followed to the last detail. I won't mince words -- she's pushy, but she knows what she's talking about -- if you go into your stay telling her exactly what you want out of your time there and trusting her advice at every turn, you won't be disappointed! Also, don't be late for breakfast -- she will literally bang on the floor to wake you. (It's kind of hilarious!) That said, you won't want to miss her breakfast. I'm talking stuffed french toast and caramelized grapefruit with Meyer lemon semifreddo and fantastic coffee. Yes, please!

6. Bar Harbor:

It doesn't get more poetic than Maine. The view will make you want to write a novel and smoke a pipe, all while trying to figure out how the heck so many people get those darn ships into those tiny bottles! Situated on Frenchman Bay, Bar Harbor is a fishing town with an easy pace and as beautiful a backdrop as you could hope for. Lots of hotels to choose from and you're absolutely set if you love lobster.

Cadillac Mountain (in Arcadia Nat'l Park) is the first piece of land to see the sun in the US, every morning; so, a hike or drive up to the top to see the sunrise is a MUST DO! Also, in the park, is the Jordan Pond House, a restaurant famous for its popovers -- a very fun tradition!

So, there you have it -- my top 6 for now. Though, some seriously honorable mentions worth looking into, are: Boston & Mexico City. I love both and both are GREAT choices for a quick getaway with maximum impact for just a little time.

Hope one of these inspires you to look into a great getaway spot!
(Feel free to let me know if you have a nearby pick to which you'd like to give a shout-out.)

Until Next Time,

Ilana

The “Packing List”


This week, we were rocking the following:

Touching Up My Roots

This past October, I had the extreme pleasure of traveling to Italy with some of my family members, including my mom. I'd been there previously for a hosting project; but, while on location, I had little to no personal time to explore and connect with the country from which my mother's side of the family hails. This time, there was no business on the agenda, other than rolling a little blog tape here and there. And, most importantly, until October, mom had never been.

She couldn't look more Italian if she were holding a plate of spaghetti!

Though, we covered a lot of ground during our visit, our pilgrimage to Carrara was the most significant. My mother's family comes from the mining town in the northwest corner of Tuscany, which is best known for the marble quarried there. Fun fact, Carrara marble was used in ancient Rome to construct the Pantheon; and, Michelangelo's Pietà and David are both carved from it.

Just to give you an idea of how much marble we're talking, check out this shot of Carrara, from above. Those mountains at the top of the photo aren't snow-capped...it's pure marble!

It was a transcendent experience, just not in the way I had initially anticipated. I typically try not to put too many expectations on a travel experience; but, when you know that your family comes from Tuscany, it's hard to not fill in the blanks with vino and villas and a spa-like atmosphere befitting both pairs of the flow-y linen pants you packed (even though you know you'll be a little too chilly for them in October). 

As we drove further into the quarry-laden landscape, with the family in tow, I was struck with the notion of how tough my Italian family members must have been. (And still are, I imagine.) It's not a terrain or a climate ideal for, let's say, a 30-something, city-loving, travel blogger who likes to sleep in and get facials occasionally. Truth be told, as we drove deeper into Carrara's marble-scarred countryside, it was hard to feel a connection to the foreboding panorama from which I was literally sculpted.

Though, not to worry, we were planning on making a lunchtime stop in Colonnata, where they're known for one thing...lardo! And, if there was a culinary item that could make me feel connected to my birthright, it would likely be bacon.

Colonnata is a tiny, bewitching, ancient village within Carrara. There were clotheslines hanging with clean white sheets, incredible views of the nearby marble quarries, and lots of winding, narrow staircases. It was a charming backdrop against which to not eat lunch.

That's because (while it sure LOOKS delicious) the Lardo di Colonnata that we had the displeasure of sampling is simply fat. Not heavily marbled pork. Not blubber that has been cooked slightly into a delicious, buttery spread and then transferred to a piece of mind-numbingly delicious focaccia. Not lard that has been cured with rosemary and truffle; but, just thinly sliced fatty, fatty, fat.

Sure, try and dress it up with anchovies & honey,
but fat by any other name...

C'mon, world, what am I not getting about this?

But here's the thing about family. Just when you've reached the end of your lardo-covered rope -- when you're at the base of the Apuane Alps, you're cold, hungry and cranky, and you really just want to be left alone -- they're there. I was truly agitated and I was surrounded by them. Of course, the family that took the trip to Italy with me was there alongside me, but it was the family who had never left Carrara that struck me in that moment.

Here I was, on the verge of a Grande meltdown, and I had to laugh at the view. Not my view of the marble from the amazing vantage of Colonnata, but the marble's view of me.

And, just like that, Carrara had me. Before I could count to dieci, I was marveling at my surroundings with a keen respect for my Tuscan forebears. That, or the lardo was laced with something amazing!

(Heck, before we left, I purchased two packages to give as gifts.)

Then, my brother Will braved some very controversial terrain to deposit us right in the middle of the action. He crossed through a terrifying tunnel, across a one-way bridge (below), and dropped us off in a marble quarry. At that point, my sense of adventure was back to a full tank and I would have gladly challenged any authority figure who questioned how we got there: Don't you know who we are? We're Carraresi!

Who knew? Two people talking at the same time,
creates the perfect Italian photo!

I even perked up enough to roll tape and capture a little bit of Carrara for you.

Here's to exploring your roots, embracing the sometimes cranky traveling moments, and always perking up in time to enjoy the view!

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following or something close to it:

Somebody to Lean On

Greetings, Pisans! Today's quick video jaunt is bringing us all the way to the often under-appreciated Tuscan city of Pisa.

She's truly a stunning site...especially from this angle.

It's worth a trip for many reasons outside of it's most famous leaning bell tower, and I intend to give it a full "Top Seven Tips" blog post in the very near future; but, today, I join the ranks of all other fanny-pack wearing tourists and skip to the goods.

Any building that elicits THIS reaction from people is worth the trip!

So, here she is, in her holiDAYtrips cinematic debut...and I bet you'll learn a thing or two that you didn't know before watching:

I'm sure I'll be eating gelato until we meet again,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

Today's Weekly Travel Tip: How to NOT Plummet to Your Death

For a little something different, today's travel tip features Ed!

Here, he stealthily navigates the crossing of a terrifying suspension bridge and stares his future squarely in the nads. (Okay, okay...it's a tiny bamboo bridge...in paradise, but it sounded pretty slick for a minute there!)

Feel free to click directly through to YouTube and subscribe for all of our newest video updates. Though, we'll keep posting here, as well!

 Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

All Roads Lead to Foam

I hope all of you have the chance to see Rome at least once in your lifetime. There is something disarming about a modern city dressed in the architectural clothing of its forebears. The first time you spot the Colosseum from down a cobblestone lane, it will take your breath away. You can walk up to the Pantheon and touch it. And, depending on the museums you choose to visit, you can have your choice of standing in the presence of Michelangelo, Da Vinci, or Caravaggio.

But, even the most amazing cities on the planet take a little know-how to make the most of your time in them. So, here is my list of the top 7 things to keep under your traveling hat -- when in Rome.

Uno. Drink a cappuccino whenever you damn well please.

I can't tell you how many times I've read about the "rules of cappuccino" in Italian guidebooks. Basically, this most delicious of coffee libations is not to be consumed after breakfast, lest the person drinking be considered a hideous tourist unfit for holding a passport. After breakfast hours, it's more appropriate to ask for an espresso.

Now, I love coffee. Luh-uv. I will drink an entire bowl of coffee. If you've visited the blog before, you might even think Ed and I are crazy for it. That said, I don't like espresso. At all. So what about me, Rome?! Huh? What about ME?!

Espresso tastes like a punishment, with a little lemon peel on the side. It's coffee's angry step-child. Bitter. Rushed. Those little cups make me feel like I'm playing tea party. Sip, sip, gone. Inappropriate. If only espresso was served with a dollop of delightful milk foam to make it more palatable. Well, there's an inspired idea! 

Truthfully, I drank cappuccino at all hours of the day whilst in Rome and never experienced a sideways glance from locals, waiters, or other travelers. From what I can tell, all of the 'no foam' hype has been overinflated. So, if you enjoy a little steamed milk in your coffee, drink on.

That's my niece, Kelley. A fellow lover of beans.

Due. Most of the hotels that you can afford are crap.

They are often very tiny and far from the center of town with iffy food at inflated prices. Get used to this idea. Opt for a place that at least has breakfast included and a free shuttle into the city center.

(If you can afford a nice place, make sure that you specify a double bed...not two twin beds pushed together. Also, I dislike you. Mainly because I'm irrationally jealous of your giant piles of money.)

Tre. Steer clear of the Pope on Mondays.

While it's true that St. Peter's Basilica is open every day and that is absolutely something you should try and include in your Roman itinerary, the Vatican museum is closed on Sundays. For this reason, we extended our trip in Rome an extra day and decided to hit Vatican City on a Monday. Packed doesn't even begin to to describe our time in the museum. Wall. To. Wall. We were a continuous, slow-moving, international, noisy herd.

Prior to your visit, I'd definitely recommend purchasing the timed museum tickets online. Additionally, plan to start with the Basilica and plan to take all day. Wear comfortable shoes. The audio guides are fantastic. Definitely spring for one, if you don't have a tour guide. While in the museum, you will naturally get excited and start to pick up the pace as you get closer to the Sistine Chapel. Do yourself a solid and slow it down when you get to the modern art section. It's transcendent. 

Quattro. The Early Bird does not get the bucatini.

No doubt about it, Italians know food. There is nothing more stylish than slapping on your best leather boots, curling those eyelashes, and ordering up some apertivo (small bites and cocktails that precede dinner). Sounds great, doesn't it? What a lovely concept! Why did Italians think up this genius art, you ask? Because they were STARVING!

Splitting a portion of cacio e pepe is perfect for apertivo.

Here's the deal. Lunch in Italy starts right after breakfast and goes until around 3pm. Dinner, however, does not usually start until close to 8pm. Therefore, between those hours, you will invariably become ravenous and want to eat anything you find that's open. Don't do that. Trust me. Time your meals out. Eat lunch. As late as possible. And, plan on a late dinner. Then, if you absolutely cannot wait another moment, grab some apertivo around 7pm; but, resist the urge to order more than a small bite. Or, if you grew up in my family, you'd skip appies altogether and plan a gelato break for about 6pm...or maybe one at 5pm and one at 7pm. Speaking of gelato...

Cinque. I'll have the one with all the sparkly, crunchy, fruity bits on top.

Okay, this is not a perfect science; but, there are definitely a couple of things to consider when selecting a spot for brain freeze. If the gelato isn't displayed with impressive toppings garnishing each flavor, keep walking. Make sure you see some traditional flavors, such as frutti di bosco, pistachio, or zabaglione. Lastly, ask to sample a flavor or two. The consistency should be lush and velvety. Never thin, course, or icy.

Most importantly, wherever you decide to stop for the frozen treat, do yourselves a favor and DO NOT make it anywhere near the Vatican. You're welcome.

Seriously, the worst gelato of my life.
And, I don't kick many ice cream desserts out of bed.
(I actually tossed it right after this picture and found a better gelateria.)

Sei. Apologies, Anderson, but just say NO to wine and leather if you're not a Vanderbilt.

If you are branching out during your Italy stay and planning on visiting any part of Tuscany, do not try and buy wine or leather in Rome. You will definitely find a lot more value as you move toward the more rural areas of Italy. I perused boots and purses in Rome that were marked up 300% from what I had seen further north and many had a 'Made in Tuscany' stamp. Um, hello?! If you want to purchase the perfect distressed leather bag or Brunello di Montalcino, why wouldn't you go directly to the source?

Sette. When you just need to eat anything other than pizza, risotto, or carbonara.

Now, I know you are already rolling your eyes thinking that this day will never come; but, the truth is that a person can only eat so much traditional Italian food before they start to develop bolognese belly.

My sage advice to you is to search out "new Italian" restaurants. Guidebooks, such as Lonely Planet, will have them listed in a separate category. We were starting to go out of our minds on this last trip, until we sought out the foodie haven, Il Grappolo d'Oro Zampano. Braised rabbit stuffed with potatoes and sausage. An octopus salad that still haunts my dreams. Definitely one of the top 5 meals of my life.

There you have it, folks. Now you're ready to hit the Roman streets. Just watch out for overzealous rose sellers -- trust me, they're everywhere. And, maybe study up on a couple of phrases to help you blend in. I strongly recommend the Travel Linguist's free videos on YouTube. I was surprised by how much Ed and I were able to absorb with just a week of pre-Italy study. Here's one to get you started. Try it over an *extra foamy* cappuccino!

I can't tell you how many times Ed and I told each other to stick it "up you tardy."
(Warning: Basic knowledge of Italian is required to get that bad joke.)

Davvero una vacanza Romana!

A più tardi,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

Today's Weekly Travel Tip: When (Drinking) in Rome

Here's the first of our weekly travel tips! An excellent technique to hep you stay hydrated, when abroad -- or at least help you look like a local!

Also, feel free to click directly through to YouTube and subscribe for all of our newest video updates. Though, we'll keep posting here, as well!

Until Next Week, 

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

Bean There, Drank What?

Oh coffee! Sweet nectar of the caffeinated gods! We’ve had so many fantastic times together -- I don’t even get mad that you make me go through Crest Whitestrips like Chiclets.

(Which, due to my coffee breath, you also make me go through like, well, Chiclets!)

So, imagine my surprise upon at arriving in Ubud, Bali (having already had a cup of Bali’s finest at our first resort) and heading out to find some beautiful locales – such as the Water Palace nestled among its ponds full of lily pads lotus flowers – and what do I find in its footprint? A Starbucks?!? Really? In Indonesia? Home to THE ISLAND OF JAVA?!?

For bean’s sake, you can’t just put an Asian looking gong in front of a place and think that it suddenly blends. There weren’t even any other gongs to be had on our entire trip.

Well, this sad treatment of my most treasured morning tradition didn’t stop there. At every accommodation in which we stayed, we were given the option of Balinese coffee or Italian. (I won’t even begin to discuss how ludicrous the idea of shipping coffee to Bali is…no matter where it’s from.) Now, I’m all for choices; but, when you are in paradise, I don’t think it it’s odd to suppose that whatever fantastic local tonic is on hand should more than suffice. More so, if you’re truly a lover of coffee…like me.

Well, thank you for joining me on that rant. Now to the good stuff…

While we were in Ubud, which is often referred to as the main culinary destination of Indonesia, we couldn’t resist the idea of a Balinese coffee and tea tasting. We had booked a cycling tour with Bali Budaya Tours (more on that awesome day to follow in another post) and our tour included a trip to a local plantation. It was tremendous! On our way onto the grounds, we were able to sample cinnamon leaves (which taste exactly like you think they would) right off the tree. Our guide helped us to spot a lot of other local plants, including the many cococa pods hanging above our heads. Ed tried mangosteen for the first time – one of my absolute favs! And, we both got to sample snake fruit.

Cinnamon Leaves.

Cocoa Pods.

Roasting Coffee Beans.

But the highlight of our time on the plantation definitely had to be the tasting.

Now, Ed’s tasting was a little more controversial. He had decided to spring for the expensive cup of Kopi Luwak, which is a simper way of saying: "the dude payed the equivalent of $6 USD for half a cup of coffee that was made by beans that had been eaten and crapped out by a Asian Palm Civet (a Southeast Asian fox-like mammal)."

Check out the brave fellow’s findings:

The science behind this is actually pretty interesting. Basically, the civet has a pretty discerning palate and will only eat the ripest coffee cherries, so that is kind of a phase 1 filter in the process. Once ingested, the stomach enzymes of the civet start to transform the beans, mellowing the flavor and aroma and even slightly lessening the caffeine. Once the beans have been passed all the way through our trusty pooping jungle weasel, they are collected (and hopefully cleaned very well)! In some parts of the world, a cup of Kopi Luwak can go for as much as $100.

One thing that surprised me, having heard of Kopi Luwak prior to visiting the plantation, was that the civets were caged. I had imagined this entire process to be akin to dogs and pigs hunting truffles -- I thought these "poo hunters" trekked through the jungle to look for distinctive civet droppings and thus the high sticker price and exotic draw.

Civet, in his cage, on the plantation.

However, I was sad to see that this process looks to have been reduced to feeding the civets a steady diet of coffee beans; and, that certainly took most of the magic out of the experience. To be clear, it didn't look like the animals were mistreated in any way -- it just brought up a lot of thoughts about the commoditization of cash crops and how important it is to know what larger concept you're supporting when you buy items, like coffee. 

So, pour another cup and leave your thoughts below!

Buzzzzzz,

Ilana

postscript: In Vietnam, Kopi Luwak is called caphe cut chon (fox-dung coffee). Yum!
post postscript: If you regularly drink coffee and eat chocolate, try and make sure your brands are shade-grown, so they don't promote deforestation. And, definitely make sure they're fair trade!

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

• Flip UltraHD Video Camera
• Sony a390 DSLR Camera
• Joby GorillaPod Video Tripod
• Lowepro SlingShot 100 AW Camera Bag