When I'm home, in the States, I tend to eat a mostly vegetarian diet. I try and keep things healthy, avoid dairy as much as possible, watch out for preservatives and practice yoga pretty regularly.
When I'm traveling, I don't do any of those things.
It started out mainly as a part of the job -- producers and directors wanted me to eat giant worms or raw crocodile; but, I also felt strongly that I would probably not have another go at most of my crazy travel scenarios, so I should make the most of them and try anything once.
And, somewhere in between, my love of ALL things weird and wonderful about travel morphed into my current philosophy of not denying myself anything that looks different, daring, and delicious whilst abroad!
It's this version of myself that brought me and Ed to the best crispy duck joint in Ubud, Bali -- Bebek Bengil.
Pre Duck-Sweats.
And, how did it go, you ask? Well, see for yourself:
And, for you fellow foodies who simply MUST try making your own magical Balinese sambal -- and who could blame you? -- then check out THIS FANTASTIC RECIPE from Casa Luna Cooking School.
(Our cooking lesson with Casa Luna will definitely have a full blog dedicated to it in the near future.)
Here's to deep-fried anything, especially things that quack!
Oh coffee! Sweet nectar of the caffeinated gods! We’ve had so many fantastic times together -- I don’t even get mad that you make me go through Crest Whitestrips like Chiclets.
(Which, due to my coffee breath, you also make me go through like, well, Chiclets!)
So, imagine my surprise upon at arriving in Ubud, Bali (having already had a cup of Bali’s finest at our first resort) and heading out to find some beautiful locales – such as the Water Palace nestled among its ponds full of lily pads lotus flowers – and what do I find in its footprint? A Starbucks?!? Really? In Indonesia? Home to THE ISLAND OF JAVA?!?
For bean’s sake, you can’t just put an Asian looking gong in front of a place and think that it suddenly blends. There weren’t even any other gongs to be had on our entire trip.
Well, this sad treatment of my most treasured morning tradition didn’t stop there. At every accommodation in which we stayed, we were given the option of Balinese coffee or Italian. (I won’t even begin to discuss how ludicrous the idea of shipping coffee to Bali is…no matter where it’s from.) Now, I’m all for choices; but, when you are in paradise, I don’t think it it’s odd to suppose that whatever fantastic local tonic is on hand should more than suffice. More so, if you’re truly a lover of coffee…like me.
Well, thank you for joining me on that rant. Now to the good stuff…
While we were in Ubud, which is often referred to as the main culinary destination of Indonesia, we couldn’t resist the idea of a Balinese coffee and tea tasting. We had booked a cycling tour with Bali Budaya Tours (more on that awesome day to follow in another post) and our tour included a trip to a local plantation. It was tremendous! On our way onto the grounds, we were able to sample cinnamon leaves (which taste exactly like you think they would) right off the tree. Our guide helped us to spot a lot of other local plants, including the many cococa pods hanging above our heads. Ed tried mangosteen for the first time – one of my absolute favs! And, we both got to sample snake fruit.
Cinnamon Leaves.
Cocoa Pods.
Roasting Coffee Beans.
But the highlight of our time on the plantation definitely had to be the tasting.
Now, Ed’s tasting was a little more controversial. He had decided to spring for the expensive cup of Kopi Luwak, which is a simper way of saying: "the dude payed the equivalent of $6 USD for half a cup of coffee that was made by beans that had been eaten and crapped out by a Asian Palm Civet (a Southeast Asian fox-like mammal)." Check out the brave fellow’s findings:
The science behind this is actually pretty interesting. Basically, the civet has a pretty discerning palate and will only eat the ripest coffee cherries, so that is kind of a phase 1 filter in the process. Once ingested, the stomach enzymes of the civet start to transform the beans, mellowing the flavor and aroma and even slightly lessening the caffeine. Once the beans have been passed all the way through our trusty pooping jungle weasel, they are collected (and hopefully cleaned very well)! In some parts of the world, a cup of Kopi Luwak can go for as much as $100.
One thing that surprised me, having heard of Kopi Luwak prior to visiting the plantation, was that the civets were caged. I had imagined this entire process to be akin to dogs and pigs hunting truffles -- I thought these "poo hunters" trekked through the jungle to look for distinctive civet droppings and thus the high sticker price and exotic draw.
Civet, in his cage, on the plantation.
However, I was sad to see that this process looks to have been reduced to feeding the civets a steady diet of coffee beans; and, that certainly took most of the magic out of the experience. To be clear, it didn't look like the animals were mistreated in any way -- it just brought up a lot of thoughts about the commoditization of cash crops and how important it is to know what larger concept you're supporting when you buy items, like coffee. So, pour another cup and leave your thoughts below!
Buzzzzzz,
Ilana postscript: In Vietnam, Kopi Luwak is called caphe cut chon (fox-dung coffee). Yum! post postscript: If you regularly drink coffee and eat chocolate, try and make sure your brands are shade-grown, so they don't promote deforestation. And, definitely make sure they're fair trade!
I have a confession to make. I first discovered this resort years ago when I was combing the internet for the most potentially memorable places to which Ed and I could venture at some point in our lives. Then, when we decided to register for our honeymoon (and only that), Bali seemed fitting for our first monumental trip together. The endeavor wasn't budget. Not only did we give puppy dog eyes to every wedding attendee, in the hopes that they would throw some extra pennies at us and we could actually pull this voyage off; but, we even took an additional year to save before heading into the great Southeast Asian unknown.
Unknown? Who am I kidding? I'm a professional traveler! This thing was researched to the teeth! Many spreadsheets were made. And what I can say with absolute certainty is that Ubud Hanging Gardens was the very first thing I put down on every list, sheet, post-it, napkin, and coaster.
It had been built up so much in my mind by the time we arrived, I wondered if any property could meet the mammoth expectations I had squeezed into my luggage (along with a honeymoon wardrobe of which I was particularly proud).
To say that they didn't disappoint falls so flat. To mention that every need was masterfully anticipated is better, but still ordinary. To tell you that that staying at this Orient-Express property is an experience you will never forget is true, but still seems so unrefined and basic. The truth is, the richness of a stay at this Balinese oasis is one you have to see to believe. Luckily, that's what we're here for...
Located in Buahan Village, about 25 minutes outside the center of Ubud, the Ubud Hanging Gardens is built into the hillside of the Ayung River valley.
Ubud Hanging Gardens from across the valley
The property has a total of 38 pool villas of various types and sizes as well as 2 main pools that sit in the middle of the resort. The main pools are stacked one atop the other for an impressive waterfall effect.
A close-up view of the restaurant, upper pool, and funicular.
The lower pool is set up to feel like a more intimate space than the upper pool. The water cascading down from above blankets everything with a wonderful sound. The flowers and plants are much closer to the poolside and make it feel like a secluded paradise just for you. And, the lounge chairs at the lower pool are simply cushions set directly on the deck floor. The entire poolside experience feels so effortless and organic in its execution that you would swear everything is exactly how you would do it at your house (if you could afford it).
The upper pool deck is more traditional in its layout. It bumps up against the breezy, open-air Bukit Becik Bar.
We had many conversations with the staff about how the Hanging Gardens was constructed. Since it's built into the side of a hill, stretching from the river at the bottom of the valley to the very top of the hillside slope, most of the building materials had to be carried up one stone at a time. And to get a sense for just what an undertaking that may have been, you should take a look at the preferred mode of transportation onsite.
Even with the grounds as impressive as they are, they had very little to do with why I was in love with the property from the first time Google laid my eyes on it. That honor lies completely within the following 4 words: Panoramic Deluxe Pool Villa.
Ed comprehends the sweeping views of the Ayung River Valley
There is no question. The star of our accommodations at Ubud Hanging Gardens was definitely our private, massive infinity pool and outdoor area. Frequented daily by humans and monkeys alike, we basked in our own personal paradise like no two people ever basked before!
Truthfully, the accommodations are so fantastic, we had to fight some guilt over leaving the property to go exploring. And this might help to better explain why:
One thing that certainly made it a bit easier to leave our cloistered oasis was the fantastic food. Breakfast on the property is something to behold! A buffet to rival any I have seen before, with traditional Balinese and Indonesian foods represented along with all of the usual breakfast suspects. And, everything cooked to perfection. (Including the eggs made to order...about which Ed is very particular.) However, what I find to be most memorable were the simplest expressions of the local flavors. For example, every day there were new, fresh jams set out with the bread. Seriously, where have pineapple and banana jam been hiding all this time?
Well the lovely folks at Ubud Hanging Gardens were kind enough to let us nab a couple of recipes for your culinary edification and one of them is, indeed, for banana jam. The other is for Soto Ayam, a classic Indonesian chicken soup, made with turmeric, kefir lime, and lemongrass. (I had it at least 3 times during our stay. And the versions we tried elsewhere in Bali didn't come close to this one.) Enjoy!
And, then there's dinner! The Hanging Gardens' Beduur Restaurant is not only frequented by guests of the hotel, but it's also pretty popular among outside patrons simply looking for excellent fare and transcendent surroundings.
Cannelloni with Beef Cheeks
Fresh seafood from Jimbaran Bay
The food is progressive and deeply satisfying; and, the wine options, while pricey (as is all wine in Bali), are varied and excellent. Additionally, the bartenders are very adept at making a mean mixed drink. I had several caipirinhas as good as I've ever had.
Enjoying the after-dinner mood at the Bukit Becik Bar
And, all of this, mixed with the geckos chirping and the river rushing, makes for a pretty unforgettable evening.
So, after four bliss-filled days and nights in our Balinese sanctuary, I can proudly report that Ubud Hanging Gardens has been my favorite accommodation worldwide, thus far. Now that we've been home a month, I still can't help but see that amazing morning view every time I close my eyes. It's become my meditative place of calm...even from 10,000 miles away.
I highly recommend you click the picture on the right to enlarge.
And, if you still don't quite grasp the magic of this awe-inspiring accommodation, here's one last reminder of what's in store at the Hanging Gardens:
I'm thrilled that we were able to make our first resort stay in Bali such a memorable one. And, there was no other post that I would have wanted to start our tale with more! There is MUCH more to see in the coming weeks, as the holiDAYtrips blog takes you all around Bali. You can be sure we've got plenty of sambal, volcanoes, temples, shadow puppets, Arak, dancing, rice paddies, and many, many more monkeys!
Well, folks…fret not…the blog may be traveling to the other side of the planet for a couple of weeks; but, that hardly means you won’t get your fix of worldwide holidays! Below I have the list of days that I would be tweeting each day for the next week, were we not paradise bound!
So, feel free to make stopping by the blog part of your daily routine, or get your holiday fix all in one go!
Sunday, April 29:
Shōwa Day (Japan)
Commemorating the birthday of Hirohito, the Shōwa Emperor who reigned from 1926 to 1989.
Monday, April 30:
Queens Day (Netherlands, Curacao, St Maarten, Aruba)
Honors the day Queen Beatrix Wilhelmina Armgard of the Netherlands succeeded her mother, and became Queen regnant.
Tuesday, May 1:
May Day
Spring festival celebrated in the northern hemisphere – dating back to pre-Christian days, when the first day of summer was May 1!
Wednesday, May 2:
Flag Day (Poland)
The anniversary of raising the Polish flag, after the 1945 ‘Battle of Berlin.’
Thursday, May 3:
Holy Cross Day (Mexico, Peru, Venezuela)
Similar to May Day, the Day of the Holy Cross has its roots in Celtic, Roman, and Druid celebrations of the beginning of summer. Pope John XXIII tried to outlaw this in 1960, but many cultures still celebrate.
Friday, May 4:
Indie Day (Latvia)
The full name of this day is the ‘The Declaration on the Restoration of Independence of the Republic of Latvia!’ I mean, how could we not celebrate that mouthful?!
Saturday, May 5:
Cinco de Mayo (USA)
That’s right, kids! Cinco de Mayo is a US holiday! It commemorates Mexico’s victory over the French in the Battle of Puebla, in 1862. We Americans will use any excuse to pass the tequila!
Can't wait to share our content from Seoul and Bali!!! Coming soon!!
On Saturday, March 10, the U.S. Department of State celebrated its 4th annual Passport Day in the USA and the holiDAYtrips blog was invited to attend a behind-the-scenes tour of New York’s main passport agency, located at 376 Hudson Street. How in the world could we pass that up! Well, luckily, we didn’t; and, here is the account of our day and the answers to some questions that we were excited to get to ask the folks in know!
The Passport Agency is located in the Greater NY Federal Building.
We were hyperaware all day that we were fortunate to be on the premises and to have this special access. And, there is nothing more exciting than walking into a government agency with a camcorder and a still camera (and permission to use them) and having the sign above be one of the first things you encounter!
Groovy Passport Day logo!
Our tour was conducted by Customer Service Manager, Kathryn Foss,and we were joined later by Regional Director, Michael Hoffman. Once the tour began, we headed first to where the passports are crafted. I was particularly excited to check out the inserts that we savvy travelers tend to send a away for, when our standard size passports start to get too full to accommodate our stamps. And, that’s when I got my first nugget of great news...
Listen up, this one’s good! When you fill out an application for a new passport, you can select the option to get the larger, 52-page book (with the insert pages already included) for NO ADDITIONAL COST!! There’s an additional box (to the right of the option for the standard size, 28-page book) and if you didn’t know to check it, you’d never know that you could save yourself a massive headache and some bucks down the road!
(I’m slapping you a virtual high five from here over this one!)
Sam Eagle is totally giving you the stink eye.
Ms. Foss even noted that the Department of State was surprised by how few of the larger books get ordered, being that they’re offered at no additional price.
Want a visual? Let me break it down for you here:
And, I will freely admit, I was angling hard for them to give me a free insert of pages -- to strictly make the video segment more informative, of course! (No dice! They were professional and probably extra hip to my game. Sneaky world travelers!)
Next we had a really satisfying Q & A. Here are a couple of particularly great gems that we sniffed out for you guys, mingled in with some of my personal tips for passport etiquette:
The U.S. Department of State has a really handy app, called Smart Traveler, that iPhone and iPad users can utilize prior to and during their travels. Two of my favorite features are the “know before you go” section which includes country specific entry/exit requirements, up-to-date travel alerts, maps, and embassy locations; and, the “smart traveler enrollment” feature, which allows you to upload your itinerary directly to the state department. That way, they can better assist you in case of an emergency. (And, guys, whether you use an app or not, this should be a drill you are already implementing. Registering your travel with the Department of State is the smart thing to do – it’s safer for your government to know where you are.) And, if you don’t have an iPhone, the Department of State's mobile site is “compatible with virtually all mobile devices” – according to their official website. The only thing I wish the app included is CDC recommendations for any vaccinations and meds you might need when abroad. They do link to the CDC website, but it would be great to have all the info in one place.
You’ve heard this tale of warning many times, but I got firm confirmation that some countries WILL DENY YOU ENTRY if you don’t have a full 6 months before your passport expires. Could you imagine getting off a 16+ hour flight in coach, only to be turned around and sent back?! So, be keenly aware of when your passport expires. Better yet, subtract 6 months from that date and consider that to be your new expiration date.
Similar to the last one, make sure you check out how many pages the country you are visiting requires you to have unstamped. Some countries REQUIRE SEVERAL FULL PAGES for their visa, and will not permit you to enter if you only have one page left unstamped.
This one is for the families who received passports at the same time. Typically, children’s passports expire before adult passports. So, if you got a passport to go on a family holiday when you were a teenager, don’t assume that you’re okay to book a new family vacation based on mom and dad’s passports having plenty of time on them. Check everyone’s passports separately.
Keep your immunization records with your passport. I have a special spot in my passport holder just for this. There are some countries that REQUIRE PROOF OF IMMUNIZATIONS before they will allow you entry. Once you’ve gone through the trouble to get your shots, make sure that you have visual evidence of the pain!
Steer clear of holidays! When you know you are going to need a new or renewal passport, avoid submitting your application right before seasons that many others will be doing the same. The best times to apply, should you want to get your docs back quickly, would be well before the spring, summer, and winter break seasons.
The US Passport Card...Good for Land or Sea
The US passport book vs. the US passport card. I’ll admit, I needed the skinny on this one. Basically, the book is used everywhere, at all points of exit and entry; and, if that is your only passport type, you’re covered. The card only works in places to which you are traveling by land or sea. Again, if you are flying, you cannot use the US passport card. However, the card is an especially good idea if you live in a city (like NYC) where you don’t drive. The card may then be utilized as your standard government ID, in lieu of your lack of a driver’s license.
Make a copy…or several. Whenever I travel, I make a photocopy of my passport and keep the copy on me whilst leaving my actual passport in the hotel safe. This way, I don’t risk getting it lifted and still feel secure in having my identification on me. Additionally, I have entrusted pdf versions of my passport to close family members; and, they can always forward that copy to whomever might need it, should I get into an unforeseen scrape!
Honestly, our tour of the NYC passport office was pretty thrilling. Everyone was exceptionally welcoming and willing to answer all of our questions – even when they were along the lines of “Why does it take so damn long to get my passport renewed?” And they were especially accommodating when we asked to see the “archive” of old passports, or “past”ports, if you will…
Overall, I was really impressed with our tour and the promotion of the event, as a whole. Reaching out to travel bloggers in order to let the public in on the behind-the-scenes activities of a government agency was a refreshingly modern concept for Passport Day! Kudos, Department of State! (If I was allowed to wear a hat in my passport photo, I would tip it to you!)
