When I'm home, in the States, I tend to eat a mostly vegetarian diet. I try and keep things healthy, avoid dairy as much as possible, watch out for preservatives and practice yoga pretty regularly.
When I'm traveling, I don't do any of those things.
It started out mainly as a part of the job -- producers and directors wanted me to eat giant worms or raw crocodile; but, I also felt strongly that I would probably not have another go at most of my crazy travel scenarios, so I should make the most of them and try anything once.
And, somewhere in between, my love of ALL things weird and wonderful about travel morphed into my current philosophy of not denying myself anything that looks different, daring, and delicious whilst abroad!
It's this version of myself that brought me and Ed to the best crispy duck joint in Ubud, Bali -- Bebek Bengil.
Pre Duck-Sweats.
And, how did it go, you ask? Well, see for yourself:
And, for you fellow foodies who simply MUST try making your own magical Balinese sambal -- and who could blame you? -- then check out THIS FANTASTIC RECIPE from Casa Luna Cooking School.
(Our cooking lesson with Casa Luna will definitely have a full blog dedicated to it in the near future.)
Here's to deep-fried anything, especially things that quack!
Oh coffee! Sweet nectar of the caffeinated gods! We’ve had so many fantastic times together -- I don’t even get mad that you make me go through Crest Whitestrips like Chiclets.
(Which, due to my coffee breath, you also make me go through like, well, Chiclets!)
So, imagine my surprise upon at arriving in Ubud, Bali (having already had a cup of Bali’s finest at our first resort) and heading out to find some beautiful locales – such as the Water Palace nestled among its ponds full of lily pads lotus flowers – and what do I find in its footprint? A Starbucks?!? Really? In Indonesia? Home to THE ISLAND OF JAVA?!?
For bean’s sake, you can’t just put an Asian looking gong in front of a place and think that it suddenly blends. There weren’t even any other gongs to be had on our entire trip.
Well, this sad treatment of my most treasured morning tradition didn’t stop there. At every accommodation in which we stayed, we were given the option of Balinese coffee or Italian. (I won’t even begin to discuss how ludicrous the idea of shipping coffee to Bali is…no matter where it’s from.) Now, I’m all for choices; but, when you are in paradise, I don’t think it it’s odd to suppose that whatever fantastic local tonic is on hand should more than suffice. More so, if you’re truly a lover of coffee…like me.
Well, thank you for joining me on that rant. Now to the good stuff…
While we were in Ubud, which is often referred to as the main culinary destination of Indonesia, we couldn’t resist the idea of a Balinese coffee and tea tasting. We had booked a cycling tour with Bali Budaya Tours (more on that awesome day to follow in another post) and our tour included a trip to a local plantation. It was tremendous! On our way onto the grounds, we were able to sample cinnamon leaves (which taste exactly like you think they would) right off the tree. Our guide helped us to spot a lot of other local plants, including the many cococa pods hanging above our heads. Ed tried mangosteen for the first time – one of my absolute favs! And, we both got to sample snake fruit.
Cinnamon Leaves.
Cocoa Pods.
Roasting Coffee Beans.
But the highlight of our time on the plantation definitely had to be the tasting.
Now, Ed’s tasting was a little more controversial. He had decided to spring for the expensive cup of Kopi Luwak, which is a simper way of saying: "the dude payed the equivalent of $6 USD for half a cup of coffee that was made by beans that had been eaten and crapped out by a Asian Palm Civet (a Southeast Asian fox-like mammal)." Check out the brave fellow’s findings:
The science behind this is actually pretty interesting. Basically, the civet has a pretty discerning palate and will only eat the ripest coffee cherries, so that is kind of a phase 1 filter in the process. Once ingested, the stomach enzymes of the civet start to transform the beans, mellowing the flavor and aroma and even slightly lessening the caffeine. Once the beans have been passed all the way through our trusty pooping jungle weasel, they are collected (and hopefully cleaned very well)! In some parts of the world, a cup of Kopi Luwak can go for as much as $100.
One thing that surprised me, having heard of Kopi Luwak prior to visiting the plantation, was that the civets were caged. I had imagined this entire process to be akin to dogs and pigs hunting truffles -- I thought these "poo hunters" trekked through the jungle to look for distinctive civet droppings and thus the high sticker price and exotic draw.
Civet, in his cage, on the plantation.
However, I was sad to see that this process looks to have been reduced to feeding the civets a steady diet of coffee beans; and, that certainly took most of the magic out of the experience. To be clear, it didn't look like the animals were mistreated in any way -- it just brought up a lot of thoughts about the commoditization of cash crops and how important it is to know what larger concept you're supporting when you buy items, like coffee. So, pour another cup and leave your thoughts below!
Buzzzzzz,
Ilana postscript: In Vietnam, Kopi Luwak is called caphe cut chon (fox-dung coffee). Yum! post postscript: If you regularly drink coffee and eat chocolate, try and make sure your brands are shade-grown, so they don't promote deforestation. And, definitely make sure they're fair trade!
I have a confession to make. I first discovered this resort years ago when I was combing the internet for the most potentially memorable places to which Ed and I could venture at some point in our lives. Then, when we decided to register for our honeymoon (and only that), Bali seemed fitting for our first monumental trip together. The endeavor wasn't budget. Not only did we give puppy dog eyes to every wedding attendee, in the hopes that they would throw some extra pennies at us and we could actually pull this voyage off; but, we even took an additional year to save before heading into the great Southeast Asian unknown.
Unknown? Who am I kidding? I'm a professional traveler! This thing was researched to the teeth! Many spreadsheets were made. And what I can say with absolute certainty is that Ubud Hanging Gardens was the very first thing I put down on every list, sheet, post-it, napkin, and coaster.
It had been built up so much in my mind by the time we arrived, I wondered if any property could meet the mammoth expectations I had squeezed into my luggage (along with a honeymoon wardrobe of which I was particularly proud).
To say that they didn't disappoint falls so flat. To mention that every need was masterfully anticipated is better, but still ordinary. To tell you that that staying at this Orient-Express property is an experience you will never forget is true, but still seems so unrefined and basic. The truth is, the richness of a stay at this Balinese oasis is one you have to see to believe. Luckily, that's what we're here for...
Located in Buahan Village, about 25 minutes outside the center of Ubud, the Ubud Hanging Gardens is built into the hillside of the Ayung River valley.
Ubud Hanging Gardens from across the valley
The property has a total of 38 pool villas of various types and sizes as well as 2 main pools that sit in the middle of the resort. The main pools are stacked one atop the other for an impressive waterfall effect.
A close-up view of the restaurant, upper pool, and funicular.
The lower pool is set up to feel like a more intimate space than the upper pool. The water cascading down from above blankets everything with a wonderful sound. The flowers and plants are much closer to the poolside and make it feel like a secluded paradise just for you. And, the lounge chairs at the lower pool are simply cushions set directly on the deck floor. The entire poolside experience feels so effortless and organic in its execution that you would swear everything is exactly how you would do it at your house (if you could afford it).
The upper pool deck is more traditional in its layout. It bumps up against the breezy, open-air Bukit Becik Bar.
We had many conversations with the staff about how the Hanging Gardens was constructed. Since it's built into the side of a hill, stretching from the river at the bottom of the valley to the very top of the hillside slope, most of the building materials had to be carried up one stone at a time. And to get a sense for just what an undertaking that may have been, you should take a look at the preferred mode of transportation onsite.
Even with the grounds as impressive as they are, they had very little to do with why I was in love with the property from the first time Google laid my eyes on it. That honor lies completely within the following 4 words: Panoramic Deluxe Pool Villa.
Ed comprehends the sweeping views of the Ayung River Valley
There is no question. The star of our accommodations at Ubud Hanging Gardens was definitely our private, massive infinity pool and outdoor area. Frequented daily by humans and monkeys alike, we basked in our own personal paradise like no two people ever basked before!
Truthfully, the accommodations are so fantastic, we had to fight some guilt over leaving the property to go exploring. And this might help to better explain why:
One thing that certainly made it a bit easier to leave our cloistered oasis was the fantastic food. Breakfast on the property is something to behold! A buffet to rival any I have seen before, with traditional Balinese and Indonesian foods represented along with all of the usual breakfast suspects. And, everything cooked to perfection. (Including the eggs made to order...about which Ed is very particular.) However, what I find to be most memorable were the simplest expressions of the local flavors. For example, every day there were new, fresh jams set out with the bread. Seriously, where have pineapple and banana jam been hiding all this time?
Well the lovely folks at Ubud Hanging Gardens were kind enough to let us nab a couple of recipes for your culinary edification and one of them is, indeed, for banana jam. The other is for Soto Ayam, a classic Indonesian chicken soup, made with turmeric, kefir lime, and lemongrass. (I had it at least 3 times during our stay. And the versions we tried elsewhere in Bali didn't come close to this one.) Enjoy!
And, then there's dinner! The Hanging Gardens' Beduur Restaurant is not only frequented by guests of the hotel, but it's also pretty popular among outside patrons simply looking for excellent fare and transcendent surroundings.
Cannelloni with Beef Cheeks
Fresh seafood from Jimbaran Bay
The food is progressive and deeply satisfying; and, the wine options, while pricey (as is all wine in Bali), are varied and excellent. Additionally, the bartenders are very adept at making a mean mixed drink. I had several caipirinhas as good as I've ever had.
Enjoying the after-dinner mood at the Bukit Becik Bar
And, all of this, mixed with the geckos chirping and the river rushing, makes for a pretty unforgettable evening.
So, after four bliss-filled days and nights in our Balinese sanctuary, I can proudly report that Ubud Hanging Gardens has been my favorite accommodation worldwide, thus far. Now that we've been home a month, I still can't help but see that amazing morning view every time I close my eyes. It's become my meditative place of calm...even from 10,000 miles away.
I highly recommend you click the picture on the right to enlarge.
And, if you still don't quite grasp the magic of this awe-inspiring accommodation, here's one last reminder of what's in store at the Hanging Gardens:
I'm thrilled that we were able to make our first resort stay in Bali such a memorable one. And, there was no other post that I would have wanted to start our tale with more! There is MUCH more to see in the coming weeks, as the holiDAYtrips blog takes you all around Bali. You can be sure we've got plenty of sambal, volcanoes, temples, shadow puppets, Arak, dancing, rice paddies, and many, many more monkeys!
In honor of the holiDAYtrips blog going to Bali this May, today’s entry is all about the Balinese Day of Silence, or Nyepi. A Hindu holiday observed every year on the first new moon after the spring equinox, Nyepi is a day of silence, fasting, and meditation.
Observed for a full 24 hours, from 6am to 6am, Nyepi is reserved for self-reflection and requires those participating to stay indoors and refrain from anything that might impede their contemplation. This means no working, lighting fires or cooking, entertaining, and any other strenuous activity, including any type of hanky-panky! And, some very pure devotees don’t utter a word or eat anything for the full 24 hour period.
Need a visual?! Well, Ed and I were happy to help break this one down for you!
Out of respect for their fellow Hindu citizens, many of Bali’s non-Hindu residents also observe Nyepi. And, Pecalangs (Balinese security officers) literally keep the "peace," as they patrol the streets, watching for any activities that may derail Nyepi. Even if you’re merely a wandering tourist, a Pecalang will usually escort you back to your hotel; since streets are closed to pedestrians as well as vehicles. Even the airports are closed on Nyepi.
Now, the Day of Silence is pretty fantastic in itself; but, in my opinion, the beauty of the shift into the Balinese New Year can only fully be understood through the days surrounding Nyepi.
The day before Nyepi, the Tawur Kesanga ritual is held. First, a payment is offered to pacify the evil spirits (bhuta kala). Then, villages erect large bamboo versions of Ogoh-ogoh (evil troll-looking fanged monsters that represent the evil spirits) and parade them around.
Ogoh-ogoh and Balinese children in Ubud
(Photo: Jack Merridew)
In the evening torches are lit, the Ogoh-ogoh are burned, and things get loud! This scares away any remaining evil spirits and represents the island being cleansed in the New Year.
And, of course, all of this ends as total silence falls over Bali, on Nyepi -- in an effort to trick evil spirits into thinking the island is empty so they will not come back.
The day following Nyepi is one of my favorite cultural observances. It’s called Ngembak Geni and it’s a day of forgiveness. People visit their relatives and friends, seek understanding and absolution for the wrongs of the previous year, and pledge to work together to meet the trials of the New Year.
Pretty astounding, isn’t it?
Happy Balinese New Year! Now, get off the computer! You’re not supposed to be working today. Go read a book! (Make it a book on Bali.)
