Into the Dark I Go ...

I know that there hasn't been any new content on the blog for some time, but I have an excellent reason! You see, I've been in pre-production on my first documentary feature, New York After Dark, and it has completely taken over my life in every wonderful and stressful way you might imagine.

For more information on the film, which is about how blind New Yorkers navigate their city, please check out this link to our Kickstarter campaign, as well as the video plea and link below.



We should have a website for the film up-and-running soon and I will let you know as soon as it's ready. You can also touch-base via my website any time, if you interested in any film updates or just want to say hi!

I'm so excited and, even though I miss blogging regularly, I'm really glad to share some film art with all of you soon!

And, never you worry, there will be more travel and food hilarity in our future together!

Until then,

Ilana

Touching Up My Roots

This past October, I had the extreme pleasure of traveling to Italy with some of my family members, including my mom. I'd been there previously for a hosting project; but, while on location, I had little to no personal time to explore and connect with the country from which my mother's side of the family hails. This time, there was no business on the agenda, other than rolling a little blog tape here and there. And, most importantly, until October, mom had never been.

She couldn't look more Italian if she were holding a plate of spaghetti!

Though, we covered a lot of ground during our visit, our pilgrimage to Carrara was the most significant. My mother's family comes from the mining town in the northwest corner of Tuscany, which is best known for the marble quarried there. Fun fact, Carrara marble was used in ancient Rome to construct the Pantheon; and, Michelangelo's Pietà and David are both carved from it.

Just to give you an idea of how much marble we're talking, check out this shot of Carrara, from above. Those mountains at the top of the photo aren't snow-capped...it's pure marble!

It was a transcendent experience, just not in the way I had initially anticipated. I typically try not to put too many expectations on a travel experience; but, when you know that your family comes from Tuscany, it's hard to not fill in the blanks with vino and villas and a spa-like atmosphere befitting both pairs of the flow-y linen pants you packed (even though you know you'll be a little too chilly for them in October). 

As we drove further into the quarry-laden landscape, with the family in tow, I was struck with the notion of how tough my Italian family members must have been. (And still are, I imagine.) It's not a terrain or a climate ideal for, let's say, a 30-something, city-loving, travel blogger who likes to sleep in and get facials occasionally. Truth be told, as we drove deeper into Carrara's marble-scarred countryside, it was hard to feel a connection to the foreboding panorama from which I was literally sculpted.

Though, not to worry, we were planning on making a lunchtime stop in Colonnata, where they're known for one thing...lardo! And, if there was a culinary item that could make me feel connected to my birthright, it would likely be bacon.

Colonnata is a tiny, bewitching, ancient village within Carrara. There were clotheslines hanging with clean white sheets, incredible views of the nearby marble quarries, and lots of winding, narrow staircases. It was a charming backdrop against which to not eat lunch.

That's because (while it sure LOOKS delicious) the Lardo di Colonnata that we had the displeasure of sampling is simply fat. Not heavily marbled pork. Not blubber that has been cooked slightly into a delicious, buttery spread and then transferred to a piece of mind-numbingly delicious focaccia. Not lard that has been cured with rosemary and truffle; but, just thinly sliced fatty, fatty, fat.

Sure, try and dress it up with anchovies & honey,
but fat by any other name...

C'mon, world, what am I not getting about this?

But here's the thing about family. Just when you've reached the end of your lardo-covered rope -- when you're at the base of the Apuane Alps, you're cold, hungry and cranky, and you really just want to be left alone -- they're there. I was truly agitated and I was surrounded by them. Of course, the family that took the trip to Italy with me was there alongside me, but it was the family who had never left Carrara that struck me in that moment.

Here I was, on the verge of a Grande meltdown, and I had to laugh at the view. Not my view of the marble from the amazing vantage of Colonnata, but the marble's view of me.

And, just like that, Carrara had me. Before I could count to dieci, I was marveling at my surroundings with a keen respect for my Tuscan forebears. That, or the lardo was laced with something amazing!

(Heck, before we left, I purchased two packages to give as gifts.)

Then, my brother Will braved some very controversial terrain to deposit us right in the middle of the action. He crossed through a terrifying tunnel, across a one-way bridge (below), and dropped us off in a marble quarry. At that point, my sense of adventure was back to a full tank and I would have gladly challenged any authority figure who questioned how we got there: Don't you know who we are? We're Carraresi!

Who knew? Two people talking at the same time,
creates the perfect Italian photo!

I even perked up enough to roll tape and capture a little bit of Carrara for you.

Here's to exploring your roots, embracing the sometimes cranky traveling moments, and always perking up in time to enjoy the view!

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following or something close to it:

Somebody to Lean On

Greetings, Pisans! Today's quick video jaunt is bringing us all the way to the often under-appreciated Tuscan city of Pisa.

She's truly a stunning site...especially from this angle.

It's worth a trip for many reasons outside of it's most famous leaning bell tower, and I intend to give it a full "Top Seven Tips" blog post in the very near future; but, today, I join the ranks of all other fanny-pack wearing tourists and skip to the goods.

Any building that elicits THIS reaction from people is worth the trip!

So, here she is, in her holiDAYtrips cinematic debut...and I bet you'll learn a thing or two that you didn't know before watching:

I'm sure I'll be eating gelato until we meet again,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

Oh So Quiet!

For shame! Even a most loyal Bali-lover like myself can get forgetful. And, that means that Nyepi came and went a scant 2 weeks ago and I didn't know it. So, I'm hoping the bhuta kala accept this blog on my behalf and don't torment me for the rest of the year!
(Don't know what I'm talking about? Then, the below is definitely for you!)

In honor of the holiDAYtrips blog going to Bali last May, today’s entry is all about the Balinese Day of Silence, or Nyepi. A Hindu holiday observed every year on the first new moon after the spring equinox, Nyepi is a day of silence, fasting, and meditation.

Observed for a full 24 hours, from 6am to 6am, Nyepi is reserved for self-reflection and requires those participating to stay indoors and refrain from anything that might impede their contemplation. This means no working, lighting fires or cooking, entertaining, and any other strenuous activity, including any type of hanky-panky! And, some very pure devotees don’t utter a word or eat anything for the full 24 hour period.

Need a visual?! Well, Ed and I were happy to help break this one down for you!

Out of respect for their fellow Hindu citizens, many of Bali’s non-Hindu residents also observe Nyepi. And, Pecalangs (Balinese security officers) literally keep the "peace," as they patrol the streets, watching for any activities that may derail Nyepi. Even if you’re merely a wandering tourist, a Pecalang will usually escort you back to your hotel; since streets are closed to pedestrians as well as vehicles. Even the airports are closed on Nyepi.

Now, the Day of Silence is pretty fantastic in itself; but, in my opinion, the beauty of the shift into the Balinese New Year can only fully be understood through the days surrounding Nyepi.

The day before Nyepi, the Tawur Kesanga ritual is held. First, a payment is offered to pacify the evil spirits (bhuta kala). Then, villages erect large bamboo versions of Ogoh-ogoh (evil troll-looking fanged monsters that represent the evil spirits) and parade them around.

Ogoh-ogoh and Balinese children in Ubud

(Photo: Jack Merridew)

In the evening torches are lit, the Ogoh-ogoh are burned, and things get loud! This scares away any remaining evil spirits and represents the island being cleansed in the New Year.

And, of course, all of this ends as total silence falls over Bali, on Nyepi -- in an effort to trick evil spirits into thinking the island is empty so they will not come back.

The day following Nyepi is one of my favorite cultural observances. It’s called Ngembak Geni and it’s a day of forgiveness. People visit their relatives and friends, seek understanding and absolution for the wrongs of the previous year, and pledge to work together to meet the trials of the New Year.

Pretty astounding, isn’t it?

Happy Balinese New Year! Now, get off the computer! You’re not supposed to be working today. Go read a book! (Make it a book on Bali.)

Selamat Jalan,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following:

My Big, Fat, Greek, Clean Monday

This week, we're revisiting one of our very first blogs -- Clean Monday! The spring season is about to bust wide open, and that means we get to share some of the insights we learned at this time, last year. We've changed a few bits here and there to keep things interesting, but the heart of things is basically unchanged. And, heart is really what Clean Monday is all about!

For this particular celebration, Ed and I decided to have a bit of a staycation to commemorate the Greek Eastern Orthodox Christian holiday that marks the first day of Lent, Clean Monday or Kathari Deftera. While other Christian denominations started their Lent seasons on Ash Wednesday, many Greeks have been busy cleaning house, planning picnics, and packing their kites in preparation for the beginning of the Easter season and the coming of spring.

The reason we decided not to venture out wasn't because we just HAD to show you our cozy attic kitchen; but, rather, we wanted to try our hand at baking Lagana, a traditional Greek bread only served on Clean Monday.

There are some hard and fast rules to what observers may eat on Kathari Deftera. For starters, any animal that bleeds is out. Dairy is out (this, sadly, means butter). Fish is out, though shellfish is fine (and quite popular). As for the Lagana, it is traditionally supposed to be unleavened, but I wasn't able to find any recipe that didn't include a little yeast.

This is the recipe that I ended up cobbling together from all of the top contenders out there in the foodiverse:

• 3 envelopes active dry yeast
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 7 cups bread flour
• 2 1/3 cups warm water
• 1 tbsp. salt
• 5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• Sesame seeds for sprinkling

And these are the ingredients I added to my (separate) focaccia-style Lagana:

• Sub out evoo, for 5 tbsp. butter
• 25 Kalamata olives, pitted
• 1 1/2 tsp. rosemary
• 3/4 tsp. garlic powder
• 1 tsp. oregano
• 1 tsp. thyme
• 1 tsp. sea salt + 1 tsp. sea salt sprinkled on top

1. First, I combined the flour and salt. Then, I made a well for the evoo.
2. Once the yeast started bubbling up (from the sugar/water mixture) and looking strangely like a cappuccino, I mixed it into the flour mixture.
3. Next, I kneaded the dough for 5-10 minutes, rolled it into a ball, rubbed it with evoo and set it aside for 2 hours, under a tea towel, to double.

Of course, all of this was executed with one glass of Greek wine tied behind my back!

After the dough doubled and we'd had our fill of wine, it became clear that further bread making antics would have to wait until the morning. This included rolling both doughs out, as thin as possible. A little bit of a squishy affair when working with the olive-filled focaccia.

Now, watch and be amazed as the master bread maker perfectly executes her Lagana:

Once the bread was finished, we needed to prep the table for our Clean Monday feast. This meant setting out our favorite Greek spreads, olives, grilled octopus, and stuffed grape leaves.

Ain't no party like an octopodi...

Not sure how to tell your taramosalata from your melitzanosalata? Not to worry, Ed has all the answers!

Finally came the magical moment when I got to sample the Lagana. It truly was a labor of love and really drove the idea of Lent and family effort home for me.

Happy Kathari Deftera, everybody! (May you have great breezes for kite flying!)

And, here's to the beginning of a lovely spring,

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

Moses' Chosen Burger

This week, we decided to stay close to home to check out a local landmark, White Manna Hamburgers, in Hackensack, NJ. Named for the biblical food that fell from heaven in Exodus, this location of White Manna has been cranking out onion-smothered sliders since 1946 and is a bit of an institution in this neck of the woods. By the way, I've always imagined that manna looked like instant mashed potato flakes. This is hardly relevant, but I honestly don't know if I'll even have occasion to share that little brain nugget again!

The sign is bigger than the diner!

Sitting right on the bank of the Hackensack River, the location is so picturesque that you'd think a burger joint no larger than an Airstream trailer would look out of place; but, due to the surrounding street-scape and the history that further entrenched White Manna into this very spot, it's the river that seems odd while gurgling under the shadow of the diminutive diner.

Though, you guys don't want to hear any more about the landscape. How did the burgers stack up? That's really all you crazy carnivores want to know, isn't it?

Feel free to leave your thoughts about White Manna in the comments section. And, if you have any other local gems you'd like for us to explore and review, definitely share that as well!

Dreaming of owning my own flattop grill,

Ilana


The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it:

Black Noodles for My Black, Black Heart

This week, we're revisiting one of our most popular blogs, in honor of that great pain in the ass of an unoriginal holiday -- Valentine's Day. We've changed a few bits here and there to keep things interesting and (no promises, but) we may have even tracked down Russell Stover and kicked him squarely in the chocolate truffles.

Just remember, maxi pads have wings too.

Ah, Valentine’s Day…

...flowers…love notes…eating half of every chocolate candy while on the hunt for anything with coconut and putting the rest back in the sampler box…sweethearts walking hand-in-hand…birdies singing because spring is just around the corner…it’s a nice scene, isn’t it?

Then, why does it suck so bad?!

Try as I might to be perky about the mandated day of love, all I seem to see is flowers that cost 40% less last week … the marginalizing of lonely individuals … children in the Third World laboring in chocolate factories … my favorite restaurants decidedly jamming 20 more tables and chairs into an already tight space … really bad movies with way too many celebrity cameos by overpaid actors that only had to be on set for less than a week in order to move the 19 shoddy plots along … being told I’m great because a day decrees it to be so.
(I know I’m great, tell me tomorrow.)

And, I know I’m not alone. Many people can’t stand Valentine’s Day.

Antivalentinism is an established movement and, while I don’t necessarily want to label myself as quite THAT committed to my distaste for the most unoriginal day of the year, it’s a surprisingly sensible criticism.

The first insulting Valentine’s cards surfaced in the 1850s and were known as Vinegar Valentines or Penny Dreadfuls. They were usually poorly printed and sent anonymously. The post office sometimes confiscated them as unfit to be mailed.

Anti-Valentine cards exist and they’re AWESOME!

So, as you might have guessed, I looked at all other possible world holidays being celebrated this week. But, with North America, Europe, Latin America, Asia, and even parts of the Middle East all drinking cupid’s Kool-Aid, Independence Day in Gambia just didn’t quite make the cut. 

As a result, I set out to find a custom somewhere on the planet that could potentially save Valentine’s Day for me. Out of all of the countries that celebrate V-Day, there just had to be a tradition that didn’t make me want to choke on a box of Be Mine hearts.

And, it turns out that my search did us all proud! Ladies and gentlemen, I give you Black Day: the most excellent, South Korean (by way of China), Valentine’s ritual.

Here’s the deal ... in South Korea, on February 14, folks are still actively engaging in the age-old tradition of exchanging candy – only it’s women who give candy to men. One month later, on March 14 (White Day), men return the favor by giving women non-chocolate or white chocolate tokens of their affection. Then, one more bumpy ride of a month down the Tunnel of Love, we find ourselves at April 14 – Black Day!

Reserved for the lonely hearts, Black Day is when those who didn’t exchange gifts on V-Day or White Day take themselves out to a restaurant and eat Jjajangmyun, Korean noodles with black bean sauce. The black sauce is what gives the day its name and apparently gives singles the strength to move on in a loveless world!

Homemade korean noodles.

Mix the two and thank me later.

Black bean sauce.

The sauce is made from a base of fermented black bean paste, potatoes, and onions. And, apparently you can't get the real-deal just anywhere; though, a little digging revealed that the Jjajangmyun in the New York metro area can be found at Mandarin restaurant, in Palisades Park, New Jersey. They make their own noodles in-house and serve Chinese food in the Korean style.

Palisades Park's Koreatown has the highest concentration
of Korean restaurants within a one-mile radius in the U.S.

The main red characters spell Mandarin in Korean.
The smaller, red characters say su ta gook su (hand made noodles).

That's right! Ed wins a gold star (covered in black bean sauce) for giving his order clearly and properly, albeit loudly and overly annunciated. 

Show off.

Though, things started to quickly look up as I tucked into my seafood soup!

I even (generously) let Ed suck the prawn head.

Mmm...brains...

And, if there's one final, loving nugget that we would like to leave you with, it's this -- when dining out on Jjajangmyun, DO NOT sample the dessert gum.

You've been warned.

Also, the abbreviation for Singles Awareness Day is SAD.

Well, I’m off to get my Antivalentinist card laminated.

Until next week,

Ilana

The “Packing List”

This week, we were rocking the following...or close to it: